Straight pipe installed on my big tractor

It was a nice day out yesterday, so I decided to take on the job of removing the huge muffler from our Massey Ferguson 3545 tractor, and made it a straight pipe. I had to cut off the old V-band flange from the original muffler for two reasons... one, it was some weird sized piping, like 3.75" ID, and two, the place I got my parts at would have to order it in. So anyways, I bought 4' of 3.5" aluminized exhaust pipe, a new 3.5" rain cap, and a spray can of 1500 degree Fahrenheit flat black paint.

Removing the hood off the tractor was by far the hardest part, especially when you have to lift it over a huge 4' muffler by yourself, while balancing with one foot on the front fender, and the other on top of the valve cover. Only took me 1.5 hours to take the hood off, with only eight easy access bolts. :rolleyes:

As you can see in the picture, I had to TIG weld on a feed tube, that comes from the bottom of the air filter box (I think it is there to suck up and expel any debris that collects in the bottom of the box, out the exhaust pipe). I just cut the old one off on an angle, and welded it to the straight pipe. The weld to the flange has a little prosity in it, but the flange was rusty, and TIG welding and rust don't mix, it likes perfectly clean steel. :rolleyes:

I also installed new fasteners with never seize on them, and maybe I'll make another video, after I turn up the fuel a turn or so.

You can watch the video of it here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elMZOWtpJdE

This post has been edited by chevyinlinesix on Apr 19 2009, 04:51 PM

Attached Image (Click thumbnail to expand)

Oh, I forgot to add, I also was able to check the turbocharger for shaft play... and there is an unacceptable amount :( I've been trying to figure out exactly what kind of turbo it is, and if I can just get a rebuild kit for it, or find a good used one, or find a different turbo that would work. It says AiResearch on the compressor housing, but I can't seem to find any other numbers on it. It looks similar to a T4 flange, possibly a dual scroll turbine housing, but it needs to be replaced, what should I do to find a replacement one?

Attached Image (Click thumbnail to expand)

Here is a picture of the side of it, showing the huge turbine side, compared to the tiny compressor side. Any idea how I can figure out what turbo would replace it?

Attached Image (Click thumbnail to expand)

Holy crap that was a big muffler on there! :o

Sounds much better though!

I think you should put your old GM-8 on there once you get a new turbo(s)

This post has been edited by mattthebrat on Apr 19 2009, 05:38 PM

Okay, update guys... I turned up the fuel one FULL turn, (which is two 180 degree turns of the disc) which was about 12 clicks of the disc inside the injector pump. I'll post up later today the instructions I used, aww heck, I'll post the instructions now... http://www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp/index.htm

That is the website I used, it has instructions for lots of differant engines, near the bottom is the instructions for Perkins with CAV pump. The instructions could defiantly use some better wording and clarification, along with pictures. So, I will write up a better set of instructions on how to turn up the fuel, along with pictures I took, and a way to remove a bolt that has fallen down inside the injection pump, between all the weights and stuff inside there (I thought I would never get it, and I was going to have to take off the injection pump) Including helpful hints, wrench sizes, and what to expect for time and such.

I'm going to take the tractor for a test drive today, and make a video on a nice day that isn't raining. Tractor idles lower now, by about 300 RPM, and the raincap is open even further than before at idle now. It was kind of dark at 2:30 AM, but I noticed more black smoke at the higher RPM's (2000-2100) :lol:

Keep in mind that these exact same engines put out 250 HP stock in boat applications, ours is rated at 120 HP, so if I say bump it up 180 or 200 HP that's one powerful tractor. :rockout:

I'll look into an EGT gauge before I go any further though.

P.S. If you happened to read those instructions... I DID slide the wheel off the spline, took some maneuvering with a couple small screwdrivers to get it back on.

This post has been edited by chevyinlinesix on Apr 20 2009, 12:40 PM

Sorry if it's not written up too well, I just copied it from another forum. If I had done one, I would have better pix and instructions like the IH section has. I'll gladly add whatever else you want to the "Low Buck Fuel Rate site".

That's so cool that you found this site :D I have the pictures on my computer, but forgot to take on while I was able to access the fuel plate. On another note, I have a feeling I may have turned it down. In the instructions it said to turn it towards you, but if you spin it counterclockwise one side comes towards you, and if you spin it clockwise the other side comes towards you.

I spun mine clockwise, but after looking at our small Massey tractor, with same style injector pump, only mounted horizontal, I realized that it uses gears to drive it, thereby spinning backwards to the injector pump on our big Massey. The big Massey is driven off the camshaft it appears. I remember turning the engine clockwise (as viewed from drivers seat) made the injection pump turn counterclockwise as viewed from top) So I MAY have turned it down.

Any way I will know if I turned it the right way fro sure or not?

Sometimes it's quicker to try it and see. By the time you get a reply, you could crank it one way. If that wasn't it, go back the other way and test drive. From what I remember it was CCW. I have a buddy with a CAV pump on a 4BT Cummins. I should've tinkered with it when I had a chance. That article wasn't done by me, so I cant speak from experience on a CAV pump.....yet.

I test drove it the other day, and there used to be some black smoke at WOT in final gear, now the exhaust is clear, couldn't see any smoke. I guess tomorrow I have a new job... repeat original job and do it right! :lol:

Thanks for the quick reply. This time I will remember to take a picture halfway through too. :D

Here are my instructions that I came up with, as I was turning the fuel up on my Lucas CAV Injection Pump.

1.Here is the injector pump we will be working on. The fuel cover plate is in the middle of the injection pump, and has two bolts that are on a slant, holding it on.
(Posted Image)

2. Shut off fuel feed from tank. The valve is assessable from the rear of the tractor, on the left side, at the bottom of the tank.
(Posted Image)

3. Using an 8mm wrench, remove the fuel cover plate. Be careful to not tear the rubber gasket behind it. Fuel will pour out of the injection pump until it is empty. Looking inside the injector pump, you will see a thick disc with letters stamped on it, spaced out around the outer edge. You will also see the two bolts that hold it in place.
(Posted Image)

4.You will need to rotate the engine by hand, in order to access one bolt at a time. Remove the first bolt with an 8mm wrench (they are very tight) and use needle nose pliers to draw the bolt out of the injection pump. DO NOT drop the bolt in the injection pump, or you will have to fish it out with a magnet, and it's very hard to do.
5.Rotate engine by hand to gain access to the other bolt and remove it with an 8mm wrench. You may need to use a small screw driver to hold the thick plate up, so that you can remove the second bolt, as it continues to loosen out.
(Posted Image)

6. Look up above the thick plate, after it has dropped down the splined shaft, you will see a thin plate with four large slots in it, and two holes for the bolts to go through.
7. Viewed from the top of the injection pump (opposite of driven end) rotate the plate with a screwdriver clockwise. You have to do full turns because the bolt holes in the plate have to line back up.
(Posted Image)

8. Reinstall bolts one at a time. You will need to use a screwdriver to push up on the bolt, and use needle nose pliers to screw it in at the same time. Tighten one bolt down tight, then turn engine over by hand to access other hole. Reinstall and tighten second bolt.

9. Rotate engine over by hand again, and double check tightness of bolts.

10. Reinstall rubber gasket and fuel cover plate, along with the two 8mm bolts.

11. Using a 16mm wrench, crack all of the injector lines on the top of the injection pump open.

12. Open fuel shut off valve on bottom of fuel tank.

13. Bleed air from injection pump by cranking engine over until fuel shoots out of fittings.

14. Tighten fittings back up and start engine. Enjoy your new found power.

I have read, that opening up the exhaust on this T6.3544CC Perkins engine and turning the fuel up one full turn, will give you an additional 30 hp. It was also recommended, to not go more than two full turns up on the injector pump if the engine has more than 5000 hours on it. I assume this is because as the injectors wear, they allow more fuel in at the wrong time. So if you keep your injectors good, you can turn it up more, but I would recommend a pyrometer if you want to do this.

By the way, Thank you R/Cpullerdude for the stickey on posting photos :D it would have taken forever to do otherwise. :beerchug:

This post has been edited by chevyinlinesix on May 1 2009, 10:55 AM

I forgot to attach this, a video of the Perkins after I turned up the fuel. MUCH better :D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jetOKF3lRds

That's a beautiful thing sirrr! Should I add all that to the Low Buck Site? I'll even have a link to here to gain internet traffic(not that it's much traffic). I only average 35 hits a day tho.
That does sound like a messy pain in the fanny, but for guys like me, it's worth it. Nothing I drive is stock for long.

This post has been edited by nevrenufhp on May 2 2009, 02:22 PM

Sorry it took me so long to reply, I just bought a 1995 3500HD truck, and have been busy sandblasting the frame and suspension. :D

Yes, you can add that to the Low Buck Site. A link to GLCR could bring more potential members as well. :)

I have some results in too. Used to pull the 34' cultivators in Hi-2 at 2600 RPM, now it pulls them in Hi-2 at 1800 RPM, with some black smoke, but you can still see through it so it's all good. I'll try and get a video of it, but there has been LOTS of rain recently.

That buddy that had that 4BT with a CAV pump sold it to me. It's going in my 67 F100. I noticed there's 2 levers on top of the pump, and the bigger one goes to throttle control. What's the other one for?

I did it. I went 2 turns, got the timing advanced, and now it's ready to bleed & fire up. I'm missing a starter, so I'll have to borrow one. I'm sure it'll be more than the 86hp it was rated at. :beerchug:
It was just as easy to up the fuel as it says. The hardest part is getting the bolts back in. There's very little drag on the plate while turning it up. I may see what can be done with the governor after I get it fired up. :rockout:

This post has been edited by nevrenufhp on Sep 20 2009, 03:55 PM